Club Scuderia - UK Ferrari forum for chat, meets and events

355 Carbon Interior Parts

banni65 — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:02:44 GMT

Does anybody know of any companies in the UK which supplies carbon fibre interior parts for a Ferrari 355?

355 radio aerial amplifier

robcarter — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:01:41 GMT

Hi

Has anyone ever taken out the aerial amplifier on a 355, my radio reception is dire, the radio is new, and I wondered if maybe the aerial amp is faulty.
the cable connections all appear ok, at the radio end anyway, I presume the amp is buried up near the windscreen.

rob

changing back to standard exhaust 355 gts.

minitestarossa — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:12:15 GMT

some advice before i take the plunge. i'm currently using the 355 almost daily and i'm finding my level 1 capristo is becoming increasingly antisocial and to be honest, i now think it's too loud. i have'nt heard a standard set up on a gts. I'd be grateful for any thoughts/experience before i make the switch. + any advice on how much a year old cappy would be worth.

neil

tonyh — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 13:12:59 GMT

good pic for you :dude:

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348 front undertray

Yorkshirelad — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 12:37:59 GMT

Help !! can the front part of the under tray be taken off without having the car on a ramp ??? if so how ???
Thanks anyone

2010 MG 6 spotted today

Davo456 — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 21:40:19 GMT

shocked, rather strange looking 10 reg black MG seen today.

didn't realised they we're back yet.

Looked ok, nothing special, and the black didn't make it stand out.

sorry, didn't have camera or phone for pics, was on the way to the tip at the time.

Bugatti Super Car

Jez Moore — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 16:35:24 GMT

National Geographic 9PM Sunday.

Insight into the making of the Veyron...Might be worth a look

Capristo exhaust for 550

Foxhunter — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 15:44:41 GMT

There's been a pair of unvalved Capristo exhaust back boxes for a 550 advertised but unsold @ �350 on E Bay this week. They look in good condition and I am tempted to buy them but the vendor says he doesn't know anything about their detailed spec.
I've read good things about Capristo but my research led me to the Verdi website which seems to offer 3 different stages of tune and, no doubt, noise. Does anyone know if there are different stages and whether you can tell them apart before fitting them!
My car ('97 550) had the standard factory exhaust but I've recently replaced the front muffler with straight through pipes. This 'hardened' the exhaust note a bit, but not much really, and I was going to wire open the valves onm the standard back boxes next to liven things up a bit more. I don't want to end up sounding like a 'boy racer' but the stock exhaust is really very quiet. The Capristo option just seemed like a great price!
Any help and advice for a new member would be most appreciated.
Thanks.

Ferrari daily driver

doireboi — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:34:11 GMT

Hi
just posting again for some more help. I have gone away and driven a 355, 360, testarossa, and a 348 and really can't decide. I have decided to get rid of my daily driver though in order to push my budget to the 40k-55k mark. Anyone any suggestions which would be best as a daily driver?

Pictures from Chelsea Auto Legends today

Angelis — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 19:55:24 GMT

The Chelsea Auto Legends event is tomorrow, but today they were setting things up and parking the cars. Looks like it's going to be a great day.

Here's a few pictures.

PS: If you are taking your car there, please get there before 8:30am

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GT4 Undertray

Transporter — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:31:08 GMT

Does anybody know the dimensions of the gt4 main under tray. I need to order the alloy to make one. I have just wrecked mine on a lump of wood.

It looks like a folded up sheet of paper under there, so I was hoping I could get the sizes before pulling the other one off.

Thanks,

Mark.

Good body shop in north(ish) east

big g — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:46:26 GMT

I live just outside Grimsby and need a body shop as a horse has just bolted into the rear quarter of my 360. Any recommendations???

See attached pics:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

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Ferrari 355 Sill Plates

Jez Moore — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:05:08 GMT

Just spent a few hours tarting up the sill plates on the 355.

I just wanted to to a quick tidy up job as I will probably fit carbon ones over the winter when I have ago at the interior. However, I thought they came out OK, so I may have another more detailed go at them later as a winter project.

Scraped off loose paint rubbed down, bit of filler, undercoat, and top coat using Hammerite Satin black spray.

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Guys, I have a pussy problem!

bmad — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:45:35 GMT

Cats actually! I live in an estate that has loads of the little sods. My car is under a carport so no issues really with the weather, just cats. I've tried a few deterrents but these things are tough. It's the little surface scratches that are getting on my man boobs now. Any thoughts on how I can clear up this problem? And no I can't build a garage. Alas!

Cheers

355 Challenge

Hud — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 07:36:26 GMT

Anybody know this car please ?http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listin...l#SlideFrame_1

360 Handbrake Caliper

scott — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:14:13 GMT

I'm just going to tidy the handbrake calipers on the 360. In the workshop manual the caliper has a shield logo on, was these on all 360's or just the first few. I can't tell which way round they are neither, anybody any idea's ?.

Do you have a 348 or 328 or 308

m80hot — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 20:45:58 GMT

Are you in the north?

We have a photoshoot with the rest of the range ... Scud 360s 355s and possibly a 458 .. We need a 348 and 328 or 308 ...

8-10 trafford park Manchester .. Photographer and journo will want some sound bites also .. Audio centre will be seeing how loud each car is...

Rich

Confused,2007 Audi a4 4dr is the same as a gt4

stephen308gt4 — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 18:33:58 GMT

Confused,2007 Audi a4 4dr is the same as a gt4:hmmm:?????

To try and cut a long story short,
The woman who lives next door to me has two driveways, one at the left side of her house and one at the right, for some strange reason though, over the past seven years that we have lived in our house, a guy who lives 4 houses down parks his works van in the left side of her driveway,which is next to our house through a hedge, so maybe he is related?:hmmm: I have never asked and she has never said the reason as he has a driveway enough for four cars.

Anyway, about an hour ago our doorbell went, thinking it was the window cleaner, I got money ready and opened the door, It was the woman from next door and her face was like thunder, I was like eh!??? to myself and said hi, hows things?

In an angry voice and damien look she said to me, "what do you think you are playing at, parking your car in my driveway!?", for a split second I thought I had altzeimers:grin:
So I looked out my door through the hedges and saw a red audi a4 sitting in it instead of my other neigbours works van, and indeed he ownes a red audi a4, so I told her that it was his and she said, "I don't believe you! You have a red car!" I was like ummmm, I was lost for words, so I told her that she should have gone to specsavers:hmmm: I don't realy know what else to say to this one, a 1978 308gt4 with scud sheilds must look the same as an audi a4?
Im worried because this woman still drives lol:grin:

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F360 manual VS AUDI R8 4.2

DrG. — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 17:44:16 GMT

:shocked:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkm38E8VjXM

Maidstone Ferrari Centre

Saucyboy — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 17:22:19 GMT

Hi everyone,

New to this forum as I currently have a Porker (Ducking for cover) and want the next purchase to be a Fezza. Can't wait to have some drama mixed in with the speed fix. I originally had a Noble before moving to the Turbo and I have really missed the drama (Noise and presence). Every time I pop to Goodwood or any of the other runs and happen to be in convoy with a Fezza I start day dreaming, lol not good when you are driving.

Anyway, I popped into TFC in MAIDSTONE today and had a look at their F430. Got to say Matt was a top guy and took the time to have a chat and to show me the car whilst it was having some new brake discs fitted. When I ready (Within 12 mths hopefully) I will certainly revisit. Oh who am I kidding, I'll go back before that to get my fezza fix.

Hope to join the gang soon

Jim

Seen this - Win a trip to Maranello!

rothchops — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:42:07 GMT

Ferrari are just about to launch a new online F1 game, you can win a trip to the Factory. :thumbsup:

http://www.ferrarivirtualacademy.com...r/EN/index.jsp

Amusingly the youtube bit in the middle of the screen is blocked at work so I will have to wait till I get home :cry3:

The game launches on the 9th. Maybe we have an inter-CS championship!

Who on here is a bit tasty when it comes to online driving??

Dream Scud for Adz

Montpellier — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 11:33:29 GMT

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2030413.htm

Yellow peril

Ferrari's don't fall apart after 30k miles !

JoyZipper — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 08:27:55 GMT

Here's the proof :-

http://www.theferraricentre.com/used...rrari-F355-GTS

:thumbsup:

Is a Mondial t a good first ferrari?

WJB — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:50:06 GMT

Hi all,

I am considering, contemplating & dreaming about my entry in the world of ferrari ownership and torn between family and heart regarding this major investment.

I have a couple of questions for all of you knowledgable experts......

Is a mondial t a good first entry into Ferrari ownership?
Is �20K too much to pay?
What are you thoughts re The Ferrari centre in Kent? (likely purchase point)

Many thanks in advance.

WJB

Widescreen version Scottish Italian car and bike day Video

paul328 — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 20:08:45 GMT

Hi
After some complaints about the 'shortened video' we got the aspect ratio corrected and here is the amended link. Apparently there are codecs or something in the software we used to encode that youtube didnt like!

Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZbnTbNNyhM

Paul & the team
xxx

550 suspension actuator

Hud — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:09:08 GMT

Common problem i believe, but the suspension actuator on the 550 has disintergrated. Doesnt prevent the car from being driven, but yellow suspension warning light is permanently on. The part manufactured by Bilstein for Ferrari is used on a number of models and suffers due to the inadequate plastic cogs shattering. A replacement actuator from Ferrari costs around �650 i am told.

I have read on Fchat that a Corvette actuator can be 'modified', but given that we dont have too many corvette dealers in the UK i thought i would ask on here if anyone has sourced a more sensibly priced replacement than the Ferrari one. Possibly from a Maserati/fiat/alfa etc?

Here's the thing required ...

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Is this reasonable?

voicey — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:30:16 GMT

I'm involved in a minor dispute with Bodytechnics in Slough. They were contracted by my insurance company to replace my windscreen. When the car was returned to me I noticed that the wipers were fouling on the bonnet. This peeved me a little as I had previously spent time setting up the wipers so they didn't foul the bonnet and because they should have checked the fitment before it left their workshop.

In any case they took the car back and rectified the problem - by fitting a new wiper arm. They are trying to get me to pay for it! Their argument is that the wiper arms are one fit only as the aluminium arm is cut onto the spline during the first fitment. They are implying that I might have caused damage to the arm when I re-positioned it.

I've never heard of arms being cut onto the shaft at first fitment before but my knowledge of Ferrari methods is limited to just over a year of ownership. However, I would have thought the wiper technology would be the same as other cars. Even if the arm is cut into the shaft I can't see why they cannot be re-fitted if the two parts are aligned correctly. However, I can see that if they were not lined up then the inside of the arm could easily get mashed up.

My arguments are many fold...

- If the arms are one fit only then their replacement should have been factored into the job they quoted the insurance company for - the same as the tracker aerial is which gets damaged when the screen is removed.

- They deemed the arms good enough to re-fit the first time round so they must have been ok when they came off.

- If they had done the job properly then they wouldn't have needed to take the arms off again.

I reckon they damaged the arm the second time around and are trying to pass the cost onto myself. I would be interested in your views! :thumbsup:

buying help

ICE360 — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 16:27:27 GMT

hi all

i am new to this site and i have just joined because I have saved some spare cash and was going to buy a replica 430 or somate untill i found out the price of ferrari 360!!!

I need help on what to look out for when buying a ferrari 360, 360 f1, 360 spider, 360 spider f1 and what problems are common.

personaly i want to get a 360 spider f1.

also does anyone have the 190 point inspection checklist so when i go looking for the car of my dreams I can make sure its perfect!!

finaly does any insurance comany insure a 23 year old for less that 7k. dont wory a wouldn't dream of righting off a ferrari like Cristiano Ronaldo.

any and all advise would be appreciated.

thanks

Ferrari driveby, Ayia Napa, CYPRUS

DrG. — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 16:19:49 GMT

Somebody posted this on Youtube, surprised to see my self!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siVaTGRT3mU

I want my car back

PurpleHaze — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 12:59:31 GMT

Regardless of who the dealer is or the issue, I bought my 2001 360 F1 Spider from an official dealership on 25th July. It's had a mechanical issue since I bought it and I've only recently managed to convince the dealer that there's an issue. They picked the car up two weeks ago today and seem to be really dragging their heals in getting it fixed.

So in my 5 week ownership of my first Ferrari, it's been back at the dealer for nearly half of it. Am I right to be this p1ssed off or should I just be grateful they're doing 'something'..? Comms from them has generally been a case of me chasing them (continually). Even now I still don't have any iffea when I'll get it back, all I have was a cursory "should be end of
this week"...

I've tried to be patient with them but it's wearing VERY thin. Especially as we've ad a great week weather-wise.

How would you guys deal with this? (a couple of you know who the dealer is so pls don't disclose it - yet!)

348 pop up headlight

dasherdiablo1 — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 12:48:30 GMT

Coming home in the car the other night when the passenger side headlight decided to drop closed.

After parking it at home I looked at it and it was completely closed. I went back out to the car to find that the light was a third of the way up. I then went to it yesterday to test it and it popped up 3/4 of the way and dropped straight back down again.

The light itself is working so guessing motor or electrical issue as opposed to mechanical problem. Any advice as to what I should be looking for?

Thanks,
David

Munich to Maranello

jontysafe — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 12:05:29 GMT

Hello everyone, just wanted to introduce myself and say hello.

I`m looking for a bit of advice really. Am looking to buy my first Ferrari and have fallen for the understated charms of the 612.

I`m currently driving an M6 convertible which I love. I`m off to Meridien Modena this afternoon to look at this car:

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1778491.htm

I`m hoping it will live up to my expectations! I know about running costs as am using the M6 as daily driver (15.9mpg).

Does anyone know this car?

Looking on Autotrader I have also found this car but am loath to buy a Ferrari without the benefit of the 2 yr warranty.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classifi...1501?logcode=p

These cars represent crazy value for money, even more so than the M6 I think.

Am i being completely crazy. Others have told me to buy a smoker for the day to day and get a decent 430coupe as I`ll be opening myself up for more depreciation on the 612. I errr towards the understated though.

Any advice?

California two tone exterior

deppi0 — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:55:19 GMT

Hi guys,

I am going to Maranello in the next couple of days to finally spec my California and I have been going crazy over colour combination especially.

What do you think of this?

Thanks

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ferrari virtual academy

tonyh — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:40:29 GMT

550 - looks good value!

pdavison — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 08:10:50 GMT

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1990199.htm

Rubbish advert, but it does look like a lot of car for the money ...

456gt?

doireboi — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 07:46:25 GMT

Hi
does anyone like the Ferrari 456 gt and if so why?

Bug Super Sport

D8EAN — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 07:07:56 GMT

:hmmm:

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I thought this Cs was a keeper .....

Bromers — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:18:27 GMT

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2024291.htm

Got to be a bargain at that price.

Nice bit of kit

Hud — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 20:05:19 GMT

:thumbsup::thumbsup: Like this, looks like a great bit of fun. Anyone have info ( i mean on the car not the competition !!)

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laid up cover

silverg — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:50:02 GMT

Hi all,

I have just been quoted �365 for a laid up policy for my 355 F1 spider, given that I only paid �550 for a full years cover (Fully comp, 2 drivers and 3k mileage allowance, guaranteed value), this appears a bit high to me...your thoughts !! :hmmm::hmmm:

Rubberised trim on 348

chuno — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 11:40:47 GMT

Is there any way at all of sorting out any scuffs or scrates on the rubberised trim on the cenre console of the 348?
I don't suppose there is as i imagine it would be difficult to match the 'aged, shiny' look of the rest of the panel.

Is the only way to remove and re-finish?

456 help needed pls

LazyLobster — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 09:27:37 GMT

Hi guys, I'm not much of an expert in the 456 model. A friend of mine is looking at the example enclosed. Can those in the know tell me if this example is the first generation model (not 456 M etc) The year this model was made from and to
What are the common issues and what should any perspective buyer look for ?

Apart from the usual service history. Any horror stories and what would you budget (average) to service.

Many thanks
Rob

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360 add 'never been in rain'

joshua.booker — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:51:46 GMT

saw this and made me laugh http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1984385.htm

the add claims 'never been used in rain', and yet look at the first two pictures :laugh:
seriously though, what is the obsession with cars not being used in the wet, i can't see many downsides, apart from rusty bolts under the front bonnet due to bad water removal design which i noticed on two f430's for sale. does anyone know why so many adds claim this and yet there is no certain way of proving the claim??. Although its not as bad as USING CAPITALS FOR NO REASON IN CAR AD'S:laugh:

Anyone know this 360? Opinions??

Hamma469 — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:10:33 GMT

Ok chaps

This is the 360 im looking at getting the inspection on does anyone recognise or know the car? The only thing thats putting me off it is the service history, the place selling it tells me it has belonged to the director of the dealership since 10/2008 and got the car with around 36000 on it now having 38570 miles but has not had it serviced since owning as he's not put enough miles on it, should it not have been done every year regardless of miles? Iv spoke to a guy that serviced it from jct in leeds (very nice and helpfull btw) and he's known and serviced it from 2002 and last seen it march 2007 when he did the belts and service at 35530 so now its due the 3 year belt service. So by my reckoning the previous owner did 500 or so miles in around 18 months before selling it to the guy who owns it now, this just seems very low and strange to me. Before i go spending on an inspection i thought id ask your advice on this as its my first fcar and obviously you guys know more than me.

Thanks in advance all:thumbsup:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1983079.htm

575 engine/gearbox symbols

sammy — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 09:41:22 GMT

Chaps,

Last night I took the 575 for a very boring drive - no speed / serious revving - just an hour drive for the sake of having used it twice in one day for the first time since I've owned it :laugh:

Covered about 15 miles (traffic etc) and about 300 yards from home, at the rather uphill red traffic light, I had the car in neutral with my foot on the brake.

Once the lights went green I flipped the paddle to 1st gear, and the car stalled. And kept stalling. Stuck the hazards on amid lots of laughter from a passer by:mad:

The gearbox failure symbol lit up, and the display would show 1st or "N" in flashing mode, and the choke symbol (engine emission fault) also lit up.

After a couple of minutes the car was drivable and the gearbox symbol went away so I drove the 300 yards slowly back.

Left it alone for a few minutes but the engine emission fault symbol is still there.

Got home and reading through the manual it's likely that the "gearbox pressure" was too low.

But I have no idea how I could have ruined both the gearbox and engine at the same time :grin::hmmm::grin:

If I turn the ignition this evening and all seems ok, can I put it down to a dodgy computer as both warnings came on at the same time, or is it one of those things that a garage needs to see straight away even though all seems fine after the event ?

Any advice would be appreciated.

many thanks.

308 replace oil seals on gear shift rod

antonio308 — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 08:51:47 GMT

Ferrari 308,328, Mondial
Problem: Oil leak at engine oil sump at gear selector rod; oil migration from the engine into the transmission. This is a well-known problem on Ferraris with transversally placed mid engine. The seals are cheap to buy, but the installation is rather complex. Yet you can do it yourself, provided you have the required facilities and you follow these instructions . Special tools are not required or can be made. Tools are printed in Italic. This describes how it went on a Ferrari 308 GTS QV 1984. There may be deviations on other Ferrari models with transversally placed V8 engine.
You will need the following tools:
� 10 mm ring spanner flat profile
� 1/2" hex key
� 12 mm hex key
� 13 mm open spanner (two)
� 19 mm open spanner (two)
� 21 mm open spanner
� 24 mm open spanner
� 27 mm open spanner
� soft hammer
� 24 mm socket
� special tool for 24 mm socket (see step 9)
� 4mm drift
� 8 mm drift
� small saw for steel
� measuring tape
� 10 mm socket T spanner
� 15 x 2 mm flat stock
� carpet knife
� hand pump with plastic hose for filling oil

How to proceed?
1. place the car on a car lift or above a garage pit; install wheel wedges
2. disconnect the battery key (left front corner of the car)
3. open the engine lid
4. remove the oil dipstick
5. disconnect the engine oil dipstick from the AC compressor, remove M6 nut and washers with a 10 mm spanner; a ground wire from the compressor clutch is also attached at this place.
6. get under the car and drain the engine oil; make sure you have a recipient big enough to contain 10 liters. You need a 1/2" hex key to remove the plug and copper washer; the hole is rather large, so the flow is high; when using a funnel to drain the oil in a plastic container, make sure that the pipe of the funnel is large enough to swallow the oil flow from the engine, otherwise you may get soaked with oil.
7. drain the gearbox oil; approx. 4 liter; you need a 12 mm hex key to remove plug and copper washer; the plug has a magnetic ring; check for metal impurities.
8. gearshift rod must be disconnected; the bolt connecting the fork on the T-rod must be removed; remove the nut with nylon insert with a 13 mm spanner; let the nut a couple of turns on the bolt, take a 4mm drift tool, insert it in the nut cavity and tap with a small hammer to shift the bolt out of the fork and T-bolt; loose both jam nuts on the connecting/adjusting hex part with two open 19 mm spanners; the rear jam nut is left threaded; take a small steel saw and mark a line on the rod going to the car interior; take a measuring tape and write down the values that you measure between the front edge of the hex part and the saw mark on the rod and between the rear edge of the hex part and the fork going through the oil pan; make the sum of both values and write it down somewhere; unscrew the hex part by turning ACW on front rod; the fork should slide under the shifting T rod that goes into the oil pan; it may require some force to get the parts apart; the left threaded side of the hex part is marked with 6 small notches.
9. dipstick extension tube must be removed; slide a 27 mm open spanner over the collar nut and have the other end above the transversal chassis member; tap with a copper or soft hammer ACW on the spanner; the collar nut should come loose and can be unscrewed by hand; clean pipe and nut.
10. nipple and insert pipe from dipstick must be removed from the oil pan, to be able to drop the oil pan; the nut is not well accessible and must be removed with a 24 mm socket; however, your standard socket wrench may be too big for this confined area; it may go easier when you make a special tool as follows; you take your square 1/2" short extension from your socket set and you cut the round shaft about 12 mm above the square part; now you take a 16 mm standard nut (key width 24 mm) and slide it over the shaft ; it should just pass over it, if not the nut thread has to be widened; then you weld nut and shaft firmly together and let it cool down in the air; you may use welding rods for steel; once cooled down, you put the 1/2" square in the 24 mm socket and now you can put a 24 mm open spanner on the welded nut; there is just place for that; use the copper hammer, if needed, as in step 9; once loose the nut and pipe can be screwed out by hand; clean the parts and go to your tool shop to buy a new 1/2" short extension to make your socket tool set again complete.
11. the engine oil temperature sensor next to the gearshift rod must be removed; pull the wire from the sensor and screw out with a 21 mm flat open spanner.
12. now you are ready to remove the cover from the gearbox; take a 10 mm socket T spanner and loosen all 6 mm nuts and washers; let two opposite nuts a couple of turns on the studs; pry with a sharp knife or carpet cutter between seal and transmission housing; find a 15 x 2 mm flat piece of steel and bend a 90� edge on it of about 6 mm long; this tool will allow you to get between the seal and the gearbox housing; by going around the cover with the tool, you may get the cover loose all around; be aware that there are bushings, springs and steel balls at the LH side between cover and housing; have a clean textile sheet on the ground in order not to lose any of these parts down the drains; it is the locking mechanism for the shifting rods; as they are not at the equal height in the transmission housing, the balls and springs are not at the same level; at the front, bushing, spring and ball are deep into the transmission housing and backed up by a cylindrical spacer; in the middle, the bushing and spring are flush with the gearbox cover; at the rear, bushing and spring are inserted in a cavity in the cover; you need to know this for correct re-assembly.
13. with some luck, the gasket will remain bonded to the cover; scrape eventually any earlier applied gasket seal away from the cover and the gearbox housing and wipe all parts clean; when the gasket is damaged, a new one will be required; in this phase the drain plug can already be screwed tight in the cover.
14. the next step is to remove the engine oil pan cover; proceed in the same way as in step 12; the cover has some internal partitions in order to control the oil level in dynamic conditions; the removed dipstick insert and oil temperature sender will cause no interference, but there may be a space conflict between the oil suction strainer and the horizontal partition; the hole in the plate should allow to just pass over the suction strainer and the assembly must be canted with the front down to take it out; proceed now in the same way as in step 13.
15. finally we are now ready to tackle the parts that we have to replace; remove the butterfly shaped support for the rocker shaft for the directional change of the gearbox control linkage; remove the 4 M6 nuts and washers; the bolt clamping the shift selector on the control shaft is accessible with a 13 mm socket with short extension; the shift selector should now come easily from the selector shaft.
16. now the selector shaft can be removed from the front side; it may need some prying and tapping to remove the shaft completely as it may interfere with the rod coming from the cab; I have the experience that it just goes when remove the jam nut and you pass the rod in the oil pan above the rod coming from the cab; there is a centering hole at the rear end of the rod, where one can set the point of a drift to get the rod out; there is a kind of a snap ring at the front side on the gearbox to hold the rubber bellows in place; keep this snap ring in place behind the two notches on the casting.
17. there is a big chance that on older cars the rubber bellows is damaged; you can order an expensive Ferrari part or you can find a cheaper bellows from a similar application; your parts dealer will help you; I used a universal bellows for a steering gear, which can be cut at the appropriate length; slide the new or old bellows over the shaft; In my case, the front end of the bellows has a collar and I secured it there with a plastic strap close to the T connection.
18. now we come to the seals which we have to niggle out of the casting; pay attention to the right direction of the sealing lip; both seals are installed with the back (closed) side against the washer; so the sealing lip of the front seal points to the engine oil pan; the sealing lip from the rear seal points to the gearbox oil pan; on an older car, the seals may become hard and that is the reason that they are starting to leak; they must be removed with a sharp but strong awl and a sharp pair of tongs; this goes easy for the rear seal; the access to the front one is hampered by the transversal chassis member and some patience is required; the backing washers remain in place and are secured by notches in the casting; it is appropriate to blow the cavity of the seals clean with compressed air.
19. the new seals are flexible and can be easily installed; fit the new seals in the good direction and lubricate the lips; bring the shaft, with the bellows on, back in; make sure that you keep the rod as much aligned as possible; put a drift of 8mm in the T - head and use this to turn and push the rod in the gearbox; this won't go easy, till the top of the rod makes it through the bore in the casting; make sure that the notch at the rear end points downwards.
20. put some grease in the bellows and bring it over the collar and the snap ring; in my case I secured the bellows on the oil pan collar with a plastic strap.
21. re-install the butterfly part with the 4 M6 nuts and washers; ensure that the 3 flippers on the rocker shaft are aligned and about in neutral and fit the shift selector fork on the shaft; tighten the M8 locking bolt to an appropriate feeling torque.
21. you can now mount the engine oil pan cover; there is no further need for access to the guts of the engine; reverse order of step 14; apply gasket sealant on the gasket and pay attention to apply it at the internal side of the bolt holes; I used a "locktite" product, resistant to high temperatures.
22. before re-installing the gearshift linkage, it is appropriate to first re-install the dipstick, as this will allow you some more freedom for the spanners; insert the nipple in the block by turning by hand; it may take a while till you match the good direction to find the thread; tighten with the 24 mm socket and the special made bolt head; insert the insert pipe in the nipple; fasten the dipstick extension tube with a 6mm nut and washer at the AC compressor; do not forget the ground cable; go back underneath the car and screw the 27 mm nut on the nipple; tighten with a 27 mm flat spanner; wiggle the tube when tightening, in order to have a good seat of the tube in the nipple; re-install the oil temperature sender, wire and rubber cap.
23. it is now time to re-install the shifter mechanism; screw the jam nut on the rod coming from the cab; screw the left hand threaded fork 1 turn in the hex part; install the fork on the T-end with the M8 bolt and tighten the nut with nylon insert; shift the rod coming from the cab to the front; keep the T-end horizontal and shift the rod towards the engine; this should allow you now to screw the hex part on the rod; turn the hex part till you obtain the sum of the two dimensions that you measured during step 8; tighten the jam nuts gently; however, this is only a rough adjustment.
24. the fine adjustment of the transmission is important; be sure that the 3 shifter rods in the gearbox are aligned and that the 3 rocker shafts are parallel with the shifting rods; in case of doubt, one of the 8 mm balls and bushing must be put in one of the holes in the casting; take the rear one; put a 8 mm drift behind the ball and push upwards; the ball should fit in the neutral notch and adjust the shifting rod to the neutral position; remove bushing and ball; adjust the 2 other shafts to the same position; a notch in the shafts should just appear out of the casting; get now a second person to sit in the cab and let him/her wiggle the lever transversally; the shifting fork should nicely slide over the rocker shaft ends while the shifting lever should move nicely in the middle of the double H shifter pattern; if not, adjust by turning the hex part; now put the lever perfectly in neutral in the middle of the double H pattern and hold it there; make also sure that the shifting fork aligns perfectly with the middle rocker; tighten the jam nuts when the middle position of the lever matches perfectly with the middle rocker shaft; let now shift the person in the cab shift all gears and watch carefully the shifting process; when OK, you are ready to close the transmission.
25. apply sealant as described in step 21; install 8 mm balls, bushings and springs as removed and described in step 12; do not forget the back-up spacer in the front hole; apply solid grease to keep these small parts in place; close the cover and install and tighten all M6 nuts and washers.
26. fill the engine with oil. About 10 liters will be needed. Synthetic engine oil from Shell, viscosity 10W - 60, has been selected for refill, costing about 7.5 �/liter when bought in a barrel of 20 liter.
27. unscrew the fill - level plug at the rear of the transmission with a 1/2" hex key; here you may need the 1/2" extension that you went to buy in step 10; you need to pump the oil in the transmission with a hand oil pump and plastic hose; fill the gearbox with 80W - 90 transmission oil till the oil drips down from the filler hole; a quantity of about 4 liters will be required; re-install the plug and tighten to torque.
28. look for any remaining parts (hopefully not), collect your tools and clean your workshop;
29. make a test ride with the car.
pictures related to this topic can be found on:
http://www.forum-auto.com/marques/ferrari/sujet1897.htm

Official Video Scottish Italian car and bike day 2010

paul328 — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 07:07:53 GMT

Hi

Posting up the link to our event video. Lots of nice Ferraris including an Enzo

Hope you enjoy. Would be nice to see more people from the South next year! In total we had 40 Ferrari's 30 Maseratis 13 Lambos and 1 Zonda!

Paul
xx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FC_K5BhzozY

f430 exhaust tips

joshua.booker — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:52:31 GMT

has anyone got a decent technique for cleaning the f430 exhaust tips inside and out, to standard non-shiny, but clean finish. Not happy about using metal polish as I fear it may cause scratching. Not a fan of these exhaust-tip covers because the inside is a different finish and simply as they're non-standard.
Only tried fairy liquid and warm water so far with little effect,
i have searched but cant find a definitive answer, so any help would be greatly appreciated

josh :)

430 beeps when starting

steelej — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:41:04 GMT

Hey Guys,

Question, when I start my 430 I usually hear 3 little beeps coming from the radio area sometimes it does 5 beeps, there is no mention of these beeps anywhere in the manual and I'm just curious what they are, anyone know? I was thinking it might be something to do with Navtrak?

John.

355GTS in need of some attention

Black355 — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:57:36 GMT

Morning all,

Recently moved to Middlesex and after an extended period under wraps in an underground garage my beloved 355 GTS needs some rust work - the expected places (door sills, rear pillars). Does anyone know of a reputable bodyshop around Pinner / Harrow area? Your suggestions would be much appreciated